Birdsong's Trip to the UK

Inverness Castle

Friday, Oct. 14 - Oban to Inverness

A note about Oban's confusion with things US. A sign for the restaurant across from the train station named Shenanigans (Irish word) said it featured TexMex food flavored with Cajun seasoning. The logo for the restaurant was a Rastafarian!

We took the 8:30 train to Inverness. Changed trains at Glasgow and Perth. No rain all day.

During this trip, I was reading How Scotland Invented the Modern World, given to me by Ben. It had great history that helped us understand what we were seeing. I learned the true story of Bonnie Prince Charlie

He really wasn't a practical choice for the English crown, and really didn't have a chance to recover the monarchy. By his time, the Scots were quite happy and prosperous being part of UK rather than a separate Scotland.

The Hanoverian reign brought peace and an end to Scottish clan wars. Most Scots did not want to turn the clock back to feudal lords. However, Prince Charlie represented a romantic ideal, and due to that and loyalty, he raised troops for his cause.

By the time he entered England, however, many of his supporters had abandoned him and had gone home. At the battle of Culloden, he was outnumbered nine to one.

We arrived at Inverness at 3:30 PM. We followed Rick Steve's suggestions in his book (thanks to Peg and George for leaving it with us) who said the B&B's were ten minutes from the train station via Market Brae steps.

What he failed to say was there were 75 steps! We made it, but walking down the street were B&Bs with "no vacancy" signs, and we worried we would not find a room. Up until this point, Peggy had made prior B&B reservations.

At the end of the lane we found Redcliff Hotel with plenty of space for that night only. Our room was downstairs, and the ceiling over the stairs was so low Larry hit his head! The room was tiny and dark, but clean and it was only for one night. The price was the usual £70 (British Pounds, about $123 US).

We walked back to town via Castle Street, across from Inverness Castle, then walked across the river Ness bridge to an old pub, The Glenalbyn, established in the 1600's.

Had another delicious Indian dinner at the Spice of Life. Nightcap at the very modern Club 27 across from the castle.

Back in the room, we couldn't figure out the shower. Just before checkout time the next day, we saw an electric switch on the wall outside. We had the standard breakfast of bacon and eggs with toast and juice.

We asked the manager where we might find a B&B with a room for this night. She called just across the street to the Ardentorrie. This was a modern building and our room looked out with a spectacular view of the castle and the River Ness.

Went to the Tourism Office and booked a 2:30 tour to Culloden and the Cairn. Then we took a long walk along the River Ness, which was high and fast flowing from the previous days' storm that we missed! Beautiful clear day! Everyone we passed said "Morning." Back to the Club 27 for lunch.

Then we sent emails from the Tourism Office and Larry transferred some of our money. We got cash when needed from ATMs that were abundant. Larry said the exchange rate was better than he had expected: £200 British Pounds = $355 US.

On the trip to Culloden, my studies on Bonnie Prince Charlie were confirmed. We saw a grave stone tribute to Clan Chattan, to which MacWood is affiliated.

From Culloden, we boarded the bus to the site of the Clava Cairns at Balnuaran. Cairn means "pile of rocks." This is one of seven such sites along the River Nairn.

The cairns were three circular stone walls about 40 feet in diameter with a keyhole opening and no roof. The guide said they are 4,000 years old, built by people who predated the Picts, who came from Ireland in 1 to 200 BC. The cairns have remained there undisturbed - no vandalism!

Had our first ever Spanish dinner of tapas at Las Tortillas Asesina. Reasonable price, excellent and plentiful food.

Larry in Cairns