Birdsong's Trip to the UK and Ireland

Booked a tour with Michael Gallagher, who said there was a huge reunion of Gallaghers worldwide here a couple of years back. WE have a friend, Desmond Gallagher, whom I believe attended the event. He drove us along the wild, mostly un-inhabited coastline, visiting tiny towns. One active town was Kellybegs, which has a thriving fishing business with modern ships that go far and wide to sea for weeks at a time. The boat has a factory at the bottom to clean and freeze the fish. Mike worked on one as a teenager, staying a month at sea off the coast of Africa. Hated it.

Back to Castle Bar pub and restaurant for our last Donegal meal. Shared a divine seafood platter.

Oct. 27 - Carrick-on-Shannon

On our way back toward Dublin, we took a bus back to Sligo, (last bus trip) and the train from there on. Booked Carrick-on-Shannon (county Leitrim) to break up the return trip to Dublin. As soon as we dragged our bags off the train in the tiny station, we heard, “Hey, Larry!” It was Michael Glancy, the friend of Colin from The Harp there to meet us! He was a great, friendly guy, who never wanted to live anywhere else. He took us to our Cryans Hotel, only 5 years old. Our corner room had a great view of the bend in the Shannon. We risked the rain and walked a couple of blocks to visit pubs… never got rained on. The town—only about 10 blocks altogether --was very quiet. Listening to an older waitress greeting friends, we could not understand her other than her greeting to them, “How ya keepin?”

Clear skies next day! Walked across the street to the Tourism office: “Closed for 2014. See you in 2015.” Had lunch in the swanky hotel next door. I ordered the three duck appetizer: smoked duck, sping roll and paté. Divine! Walked up and down in the sun along the Shannon. Boat tour signs said Saturday and Sunday only. We were not going to be there for the weekend. We decided to on to Dublin a day early. Called Michael Glancy to tell him we would not be able to take his tour. He insisted on taking us to the train next day. Dinner at The Oarsman, which had been closed day before, Monday. Lots of families. Great food.

We saw that it was raining back home! Hooray! There is so much water here they do not think of conservation. Flooding is a greater threat.

We asked Michael Colin’s last name (Gilooly) so we could send him a thank you note c/o The Harp, Sligo. Gave Michael a big tip to share with Colin, who often comes home here weekends.

Oct. 29 - Dublin

Dublin, Jury’s Inn at Christchurch, not far from the River Liffey. The first real cold front had blown in. In our room, the heater was noisy, probably the first time it has been on this season. Soon it was banging, as if someone were hitting it with a wrench. By 2 AM we had had enough: packed our bags and quietly went to the front desk to get another room, which they apologetically did. Gave us a big discount on the room for one night and free breakfast.

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Larry started a cold. A guy on the bus behind us had been sneezing. He started taking the zinc tablets left from the Vienna pharmacist. I still had a cough, but not feeling sick. We drank a lot of hot whiskeys…

We had planned to find the FX Buckley’s steak restaurant we so enjoyed last trip. Stepped out of our hotel and there it was! The restaurant with Bull and Castle pub upstairs. Had to take a 4 PM reservation that day, and ate there again the last night. The last night when we stopped at the bar, the bartenders said, “We saw you walk by yesterday, but you didn’t come in!” The Bull and Castle had a large stuffed bull’s head above the bar… reminded us of The Mine Shaft Saloon back home.

Friday: Halloween! Larry was still feeling flaky. We walked ten minutes to Dublin Castle. This was the site of the very first town, established by the Vikings due to its defensible hill location surrounded on 2 sides by the Liffey, and the other by another river. They used it first as a base for raiding, and later settled there, building fully surrounding stone walls topped by sharpened logs with square towers.. a very large enclosure. The houses, shops and animal stockades were all inside the walls. 1720, the log-topped walls were replaced by huge, sturdy stone. We saw the remains of the old Viking walls excavated under the existing walls, which precisely top the Viking walls. At that time they built the impressive, formal Georgian buildings with ornate formal ballroom and drawing room. The word “drawing room” comes from the time when the gents excused themselves to smoke and drink and play cards, and the women “withdrew” to their own drawing room.

Ireland’s history (in relation to this site): Until 1700’s Ireland had its own parliament. There had been several uprisings pressing for full independence, all of which were quelled by the English. In 1176, there was a huge uprising instigated after the United States successfully won our independence. The same general who lost the colonies, Cornwallis, (which made King George very unhappy with him) was put in charge of quelling this Irish rebellion, which he did with great brutality, killing 8,000 and hanging bodies and heads on the walls. Ireland lost its separate parliament, and was continually reminded of the supremacy of England. Thereafter the United Kingdom of England, Scotland and Ireland until they finally won their independence in 1921. Elizabeth visited Ireland 4 years ago –the first royalty to visit since before 1921.

The Irish flag is a symbol of peace and unity: green for native Irish, white in center for peace, and orange for supporters of English rule. The “greens” are Catholic, and the “orange” are usually Protestant.

The Castle is now the home of Irish government. All formal events like greeting foreign dignitaries are held in the ballroom. Offices at the site are where all Irish governing takes place. The European Union sometimes works from here.

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