Birdsong's Trip to Cancun with Alec Woodruff
July 2008 - By Glady Birdsong
July 17, Thursday - Tulum
Alec and I went to Tulum, a Mayan ruin 1 ½ hours south of Cancun in a large air conditioned bus. Larry and I had been there several years ago, and he thought he would slow us down. First we stopped at a junky tourist trap and 3rd world baño , then on to the beach. We split into an English speaking group and a French group. It was VERY hot and muggy. Our guide, a man named Gabriel, said, “My friends” at the beginning of nearly every sentence. He gave us good information, and usually found a shady spot for us to hear him talk.
“My friends….
- Tulum means “walled city.”
- Tulum was established in 1680 (nearly the end of Mayan civilization) and is the only Mayan city on the beach. Why? The site is protected by cliffs and walls on land, and a reef offshore.
- The Tulum Mayans traded agricultural goods for silver and gold.
- Tulum was there when the Spaniards arrived, but they were not interested in an agricultural community. They wanted GOLD and silver.
- The Mayan culture was a caste system—there were “layers:” priests at the top, then kings, royalty, traders, workers. Nobody EVER changed castes. If you were a trader, your children and grandchildren would be also. See the photo of red drawing of the castes.
- How did they decide who would be sacrificed to the gods? Men were valuable. Mothers and wives had some value. Young children were too young to understand. YOUTHFUL GIRLS! It was an honor to be sacrificed. They had some help to assuage their fear: beer and marijuana. The method: a knife to the sternum and slice out her living heart.
Gabriel also told us about Mexico: “My friends…
- Mexico is 97% Indian population, but has had only one Indian president: Benito Juarez. All the rest have been of Spanish descent.
- The average Mexican works 8 hours a day for $5.
- The Mayans are a current, modern race. They do not consider themselves to be Mexican, and only were incorporated into Mexico in very modern times.
- They speak their Mayan language in the home and some in schools, where they also learn Spanish.
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I pointed out to Alec faces typical of Mayans: High, sloping forehead, high cheekbones, hooked nose, defined lips. Small of stature. People we saw looked very much like the figures carved in stone.
We had been told to “bring” bathing suits to Tulum, which we did. Unfortunately, they did not tell us to WEAR them under our clothes, and there was no place to change. While hundreds cooled off in the blue-green waters of the beach, we watched from the cliffs.
Friday - Club Med
Our last day! How did THAT happen? Alec and I tried to snorkel—too choppy. To the pool for Larry and me; water skiing for Alec. Last lunch at 1 PM; 2:30 shuttle to the airport. Wow! Has that airport changed since we were last there! Looks like LAX. Huge super high ceilings. Hard Rock Café, Margaritaville and Bubba Gumps inside. Mucho touristas shops. All this since the hurricane three years ago.
As our plane took off, Alec took a photo as we flew over Club Med! Happy ending!
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